Beyond the skyscrapers: the other Hong Kong

When one thinks of Hong Kong, it is easy to imagine skyscrapers, shopping malls, and a fast-paced lifestyle. But after a while living here, you discover a completely different side: tranquil islands, routes through mountains, and villages where life unfolds differently.

In this post, I’ll tell you about one of the first routes I took that completely changed the way I see this city.

🗺️ General Information about the Route

Name: Dragon’s Back

• Location: Hong Kong Island

• Duration: 3 hours (ending at Big Wave Beach)

• Distance: 8.5 km

• Difficulty Level: Beginner

• Ideal for: Anyone who loves nature. No great physical fitness required.

🚍 How to Get There

Dragon’s Back is probably the most iconic and well-known hiking trail in Hong Kong. If you live here, it’s very likely you’ve already done it — the views it offers are hard to forget.

To get to the start of the trail:

1. Metro: Take the Island Line (blue line) towards Chai Wan and get off at Shau Kei Wan station.

2. Exit: Exit through exit A2. When you exit, you’ll see the minibuses just to the left.

3. Minibus: Take the one going to To Tei Wan (the driver usually announces if he goes to Dragon’s Back).

4. Payment: You can pay with the Octopus card (the fare costs about 13 HKD, approximately 1.50 €).

5. Duration: The trip takes about 20 minutes.

6. Stop: Get off at To Tei Wan. If you’re not sure, you can let the driver know you want to get off there and he will notify you.

The start of the trail is clearly marked.

🥾 My Experience

We did the trail in early May and the weather was perfect, a bit cloudy, not too humid. Keep in mind that in July and August it can be quite tough, as much of the route is under the sun and without shade.

The first section is the most physically demanding. It starts with a moderate slope through dense vegetation, but there are stone steps and it is not complicated. In a few minutes, you reach the first viewpoint.

The main peak is about 300 meters high. From there begins the stretch that gives the route its name: a series of rolling hills that resemble a dragon's back.

The views from that point are spectacular; you have a total view of the sea, skyscrapers, and small islands that can be seen in the distance. They may be some of the most incredible views I have seen while hiking.

The path is narrow but safe, with no risk at the edges. It is well marked at all times and there are several spots to stop and take photos.

After the high section, the path re-enters an area with a lot of vegetation. We were surprised by the tranquility: despite being one of the most known routes, there were hardly any people. We went on a Saturday morning and did it practically alone, accompanied by butterflies and a few mosquitoes.

In our case, we decided to hike the trail all the way to Big Wave Beach since we wanted to take a dip when we arrived. This part is done among vegetation and shade, which is appreciated on hot days. We walked for an hour and a half until we reached the village, where there are shops to buy food or even rent surfboards.

The beach is perfectly marked. And just upon arrival, we found a beachside bar where we ate and rested.

The food cost 310 HKD (about 35 €), a very reasonable price for Hong Kong, especially with those views by the sea. We ordered a couple of dishes and drinks. Additionally, a plus point, the beer was only 20 HKD (2.30), quite cheap for Hong Kong.

The beach is not very large but it is not overcrowded either. There is an area for swimming and another for surfing. Like many beaches in Hong Kong, the swimming area is marked off by a net to avoid any danger in the water.

The sea was a bit cool, but much more pleasant than in the summer, when it literally burns.

In summary, a meal priced fairly well, considering Hong Kong prices, along with unbeatable views by the beach.

Once you decide to end your beach day, you just have to take the minibus back, which is 200 meters away as you exit. There is a sign that says Shau Kei Wan, which is the metro stop where we need to return; in this case, there is no getting lost as it's the last stop.

🧳 Recommendations

• Bring: Water, sunscreen, insect repellent, comfortable footwear, snacks.

• Best Time: Early in the morning.

• Precautions: Be careful of the heat and humidity. Wear a cap or hat.

• Services: There are restrooms at the start of the trail and shops in the village by the beach.

🌿 Personal Opinion

I left there with the feeling that Hong Kong is much more than it seems. In just one day, I went from the subway to a landscape that could well be in Thailand or the Philippines. And the best part: without being overcrowded.

Routes like this show you another side of the city that is definitely worth getting to know. Pure nature, incredible views, and the possibility of ending up on a quiet beach resting after a long hike.

I can’t think of a better plan for a weekend.